In March 2024, Dries Van Noten, the influential Belgian designer renowned for his innovative approach to fashion, announced his decision to step down from his namesake label. At just 65 years old, this announcement left both fans and industry insiders in a state of surprise, as Van Noten has long been regarded as a refreshing presence in the fashion world. His departure marks not just an end, but also the beginning of an exciting new chapter, as he shifts his focus to the realm of beauty.
Born into a family with a rich history in fashion—his father owned a menswear shop and his grandfather was a tailor—Van Noten was destined for the industry. Yet, it was his distinctive vision for texture and color that led him to establish his eponymous label in 1986. His breakthrough came when he and five other Belgian designers made their debut in Paris, earning the collective title of ‘The Antwerp Six.’ This group was instrumental in reshaping the fashion landscape and establishing Belgium as a significant player on the global stage. Following their successful Paris launch, Van Noten’s label quickly garnered attention from major international retailers like Barneys and Whistles, solidifying his reputation in the industry.
Despite his success, Van Noten has always maintained a certain distance from the glitz and glamour typically associated with fashion icons. He has cultivated an identity as a ‘designer’s designer,’ marked by a preference for authenticity over the superficiality of marketing gimmicks and celebrity endorsements. In an interview with GRAZIA, he stated, “I have always worked organically, driven by a commitment to authenticity. I believe in letting the quality and craftsmanship of my products speak for themselves rather than relying on temporary things and celebrity endorsements.” This philosophy has allowed Van Noten to remain true to his artistic vision, avoiding the fleeting trends that often overshadow meaningful design.
Throughout his career, Van Noten has navigated the shifting tides of fashion, steadfastly adhering to his principles of wearability and color. His meticulous approach is deeply rooted in respect for the creative process, prioritizing substance over spectacle. Whether he is reinterpreting women's suiting or developing unexpected fragrance combinations, his work consistently reflects a thoughtful consideration of how his designs resonate with the world around him. “I always look ahead,” he emphasizes, underscoring his desire to create lasting contributions to the fashion landscape.
Rather than taking a conventional farewell with his last runway collection, Van Noten embraced innovation by incorporating a Japanese printmaking technique he had never previously explored. This willingness to experiment illustrates his commitment to meaningful creativity. As he transitions to the beauty sector, he has launched a collection of ten distinctive scents that mirror his artistic approach to fashion.
The creation of these perfumes required a fresh perspective. “When I met the noses, I asked them to forget everything they knew about perfumery,” he recalls. This unconventional approach was essential for breaking away from established norms. He encouraged perfumers to explore unexpected ingredient combinations, drawing parallels between perfume creation and his fashion design process. “I approached perfume creation similarly to my approach to fashion collections,” he explains.
In collaboration with Puig, the Spanish luxury group that has held a majority stake in the DVN brand since 2018, Van Noten has curated a selection of olfactory blends that reflect the complexity of their wearers. “Just as I design clothes for diverse types of people—different ages and personalities—I approach perfumery in a similar manner,” he notes. This philosophy led to the development of ten perfumes, each designed to resonate with different personalities and evoke specific emotions and moments.
Van Noten emphasizes the personal nature of fragrance, highlighting its ability to evoke memories and feelings. “Perfume is deeply personal, and its beauty lies in its ability to evoke memories and emotions,” he states. “A scent should transport you to a specific moment or emotion, allowing you to express yourself uniquely.” This connection to personal expression aligns perfectly with his views on fashion as a means of self-discovery and representation.
While this is not Van Noten's first foray into fragrance—he previously collaborated with renowned perfumer Frédéric Malle to create a scent portrait inspired by his life—this new collection represents a departure into territory that is distinctly his own. “Fashion and beauty complement each other seamlessly,” he explains, underscoring the intrinsic link between the two worlds.
The packaging of the perfumes further reflects Van Noten's signature style, featuring a harmonious mix of materials, patterns, and textures that embody the duality of the scents themselves. The designs include earthy tortoiseshell paired with regal purple, and hand-painted porcelain with blue oxide contrasted against translucent deep berry. This thoughtful blending of seemingly disparate elements showcases Van Noten’s artistry, emphasizing that beauty can be found in contrasts.
Rooted in the quiet of his Belgian home, Ringenhof, located on the outskirts of Lier, Van Noten finds solace in the natural world. He shares this space with his partner, Patrick Vangheluwe, and their Airedale Terrier, Harry. “I always recognise the contrast between gardening and my work as a designer,” he shares. “Nature requires patience, whereas fashion moves forward rapidly. In fashion, control is essential, while nature constantly surprises.” This perspective allows him to maintain a healthy distance from the often-chaotic fashion scene, providing him with clarity and inspiration for his work.
Despite his retirement from directorial duties, Van Noten's involvement in the fashion world is far from over. The designer expressed concerns about the rapid turnover of leadership in major fashion houses, stating, “The whole thing now of designers changing and changing and changing again worries me a lot. The last thing I want is for my name to become just a name that is put on different collections. And that happens so much.” His desire to maintain the integrity of his brand speaks to his dedication to authenticity and craftsmanship.
As the fashion industry grapples with various challenges, including economic uncertainty and shifting consumer preferences, Van Noten remains committed to his artistry. “I used to think my work should reflect what’s going on in the world. But four years ago, I realised the world was getting more chaotic,” he admits. His realization emphasizes the importance of escapism in fashion. “Maybe fashion should offer an escape, but you can’t ignore the world’s problems. Is it silly to celebrate bright colours and summer when there’s war nearby? Still, escapism matters. It’s not better to hide at home wearing only black because the world isn’t perfect.”
In an industry often characterized by rapid change and superficiality, Van Noten’s thoughtful approach to design allows his customers to see themselves at their best. Now, as he expands his creative expression into fragrance, he aims to create scents that resonate on a deeper level. “Like fashion, I aim to create fragrances that resonate on a soulful level,” he shares, underscoring his commitment to originality and depth.
Looking ahead, the world can expect to see more of Van Noten's signature magic in the beauty space, as he continues to explore the connections between fashion and fragrance. While he may have stepped back from his role as head of the brand, he assures, “I’m not completely closing the door.” His willingness to adapt and innovate ensures that the fresh air he has brought to fashion will continue to flow into his new endeavors.
In conclusion, Dries Van Noten's transition from fashion to beauty represents a natural evolution for a designer who has always prioritized authenticity and creativity. His new fragrance line encapsulates his artistic vision, offering scents that are as complex and varied as the individuals who wear them. As he embarks on this exciting new journey, Van Noten remains a steadfast advocate for meaningful design, demonstrating that even in a chaotic world, beauty can be found in both fashion and fragrance. The legacy he has built in the fashion industry will undoubtedly influence his future work in beauty, ensuring that his contributions continue to resonate for years to come.
